How to Prevent Pilling on Sweaters and Knitwear

Why does pilling happen? Friction and loose fibres

Pills form when short, loose surface fibres are rubbed around and tangle into little balls that cling to the longer fibres holding them. Anything that creates friction causes pilling, which is why you always see it where the rubbing is greatest: under the arms, along the sides, on cuffs, and where a bag or backpack strap sits. Preventing pilling therefore means controlling two things – how much loose fibre a garment has, and how much it gets rubbed.

• Fibre type: short fibres (cotton, many acrylic and wool blends) shed more easily than long, smooth ones.
• Yarn quality: loosely spun, low-twist yarn lets fibres escape – tightly twisted, plied yarn holds them in.
• Blends: wool mixed with synthetic often pills the most, because the strong synthetic fibre grips the pill instead of shedding it.
• Friction: rubbing against itself in the wash, and against bags, seatbelts, jackets and furniture in wear.

Fabric matters most – how to choose

If you want to avoid pilling, the job starts in the shop. Feel the garment and look at the yarn: a tight knit of long, tightly twisted yarn pills far less than an airy, loosely spun sweater – regardless of price. Gently rub a small area on the cuff with your finger; if fibres lift straight away, the garment will pill.

• Choose long-fibre and tight: worsted-spun knits and long-staple merino pill less than short, soft luxury blends.
• Look for tightly twisted, plied yarn – the twist locks the fibres in.
• Be extra careful with wool/acrylic and wool/nylon blends; they're warm and affordable, but bobble easily.
• A dense, firm knit resists friction better than a loose, open one.

Washing that prevents pilling

The wash is where most pills are made – the machine rubs garments against each other. With a little care you cut that friction sharply, and the same steps that spare the fibres are the ones that keep knitwear looking good for years.

1. Turn the garment inside out before washing, so the rubbing happens on the inside rather than the outside.
2. Use a gentle cycle with a low spin – a wool or delicate program is designed for exactly this low agitation.
3. Wash with like fabrics: keep knitwear away from zips, hook-and-loop, denim and towels that snag and tear at fibres.
4. Don't overfill the machine, but don't run it half-empty either – both increase rubbing.
5. Use a gentle (ideally wool) detergent and skip harsh mechanical scrubbing.
6. Dry flat instead of in the tumble dryer; the dryer rubs and lifts loose fibres into fresh pills.

Wear and storage – reduce the rubbing

How you wear and store a garment decides the rest. A sweater that rests between wears and avoids constant friction pills far more slowly.

• Let knitwear rest a day or two between wears – the fibres relax and tolerate more.
• Watch what rubs: backpack and bag straps, seatbelts, and a rough jacket or coat worn over the top.
• Fold heavy sweaters instead of hanging them, so they don't drag and rub at the shoulder.
• De-pill early: a pilling comb or fabric shaver at the first pills stops small tangles from growing and pulling in more fibre.

One honest caveat: nothing is truly pill-free

Be realistic about expectations. Even the best garments shed a few loose fibres at first – a new merino sweater may pill a little for the first few wears and then settle once the loose fibres are gone. That's normal and doesn't mean the garment is poor. What you want to avoid is persistent, heavy pilling that never lets up – a sign of short fibre and loose yarn. Prevention won't remove pills that have already formed; it slows new ones from developing.

When should you send the sweater to us?

Preventing pilling is entirely a home job – you don't need help with it. But if a favourite sweater is already covered in pills, or has picked up small holes, snagged threads or thin worn patches, prevention alone won't make it new again. Then you can send it to us: we de-pill it gently and, at the same time, repair snags, dropped stitches or small holes, so the garment looks fresh again instead of ending up in the back of the wardrobe. You order online, and you see the price before you order.

Frequently asked questions